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The return of the sun after a very rainy start to the year has caused our Devon hedgerows to burst into life. The lanes are heady with the scent of wild flowers and amongst them is a sweet smell that evokes bygone summers drinking iced cordial on family picnics. Look closely and you will discover clusters of white flowers as delicate as lace adorning branches. The elder trees have flowered with that fleeting forager’s prize, the elderflower.
When foraging elderflowers, look for large clusters of creamy white flowers that are fully open. Choose a dry, sunny day to gather them, as wet flowers will quickly spoil. Snip the clusters close to the main stem, avoiding any that are discoloured or have a musty smell. Do not wash your elderflower heads before cooking with them as this can remove the pollen which gives them their distinct taste. Just give your flower heads a gentle shake to dislodge any lingering insects who may have hitched a ride home.
As with all foraging, ask the landowners permission first and always leave plenty of flowers for the wildlife.
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Cooking With Elderflower
Most of us associate the delicate, sweet taste of elderflower with cordials and desserts, but it can also shine in seasonal, savoury meals. If you can resist eating your whole harvest in delicious, golden fritters, then give these recipes a try.
Elderflower Cordial
The essence of a summer’s day in a bottle.
20 elderflower heads
1.5 litres water
1.5 kg granulated sugar
4 roughly chopped lemons
Boil the water and stir the sugar in until dissolved, then let it cool.
Add the chopped lemons and elderflower heads to the sugar water, cover and leave to infuse for 24-48 hours.
Strain the mixture through a muslin cloth into sterilised bottles.
Elderflower Pickle
This savoury pickle is inspired by a Yotam Ottolenghi recipe and makes a great summery addition to a ploughman's lunch, spooned onto thick slices of ham. We’ve given it an organic twist by using an organic apple cider vinegar as the pickle base.
10 elderflower heads
500 ml organic apple cider vinegar
200g sugar
1 tbsp mustard seeds
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
In a saucepan, combine your vinegar, sugar, and spices and bring to the boil.
Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 5 minutes.
Divide the elderflower heads and bay leaves into 2 clean, sterilised jam jars.
Pour the hot vinegar mixture into the jam jars covering the flowers, seal, and let cool.
Store in a cool, dark place for at least 2 weeks before eating.
Elderflower with Roast Pork
The delicate sweetness of elderflower works brilliantly with the salty, savoury flavours of pork for a summer inspired roast.
2 kg organic pork shoulder
10 elderflower heads
4 cloves garlic, crushed
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
2 tbsp olive oil
Sea salt and cracked black pepper
Preheat your oven to 160°C (320°F).
Mix the crushed garlic, lemon zest, juice, and olive oi together and rub all over the pork shoulder, then season with salt and pepper.
Place your clean elderflower heads in the roasting pan and sit the pork on top.
Roast for 3-4 hours, basting occasionally, until tender.
Serve with the meat juices and roasted elderflower garnish.
Elderflower Ice Cream
Perfect for a hot summer's day, this indulgent ice cream is delicately fragranced with the subtle taste of elderflower.
15 elderflower heads
500 ml double cream
500 ml whole milk
6 egg yolks
200g sugar
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
Heat the cream and milk in a saucepan until just below boiling, then remove from heat.
Add the elderflower heads and lemon zest, and leave to infuse for 1 hour.
Strain the mixture, discarding the flowers.
Beat the egg yolks and sugar until pale and creamy and whisk in the infused cream and milk, a little at a time.
Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens.
Add to your ice cream maker and churn the elderflower custard until nearly frozen, then spoon into an old ice cream tub to store in your freezer.
Serve scoops of ice cream and drizzle with elderflower cordial for a finishing touch.